The story behind the room. How Chef Lena Marsh and sommelier David Reyes built a tasting menu in a converted 1890s townhouse on Warren Street, and what we mean when we say California cooking in the Hudson Valley.
I grew up in Sebastopol, California, on the kind of small dirt road where the neighbors keep bees and the apricots ripen before anyone has a chance to count them. I learned to cook in three kitchens after that. Per Se under Chef Keller, a year in the South of France, and four years on the line at Atelier Crenn. And the whole time I was thinking about the dirt road.
"Alouette is what happens when you cook the place you came from with the hands of the place you trained in."
Alouette opened in the spring of 2018, in a building that was a haberdashery in 1893 and a record store in 1974. We took down a wall, put in an open kitchen, and started cooking for thirty-eight seats at a time. That number isn't going to change. Neither is the number of seatings, or the price, or the answer when someone calls and asks if we can do something other than the tasting. The shape of the night is the shape of the night.
What changes is what we cook. Every Monday we sit down with David, the farmers, and the team, and we rewrite the menu by Tuesday. The room you see when you walk in has been the same room since 2018. The plate in front of you has been on the menu for nine days.
There is no à la carte, no early bird, no chef's table behind a curtain. Every guest receives the same ten courses, on the same night, at the same temperature. It's the only way a kitchen this size can cook this well.
Our protein, produce, dairy and grain come from a roster of forty-one farms within a hundred-mile drive of Hudson. The exceptions are honest ones. Citrus, salt, olive oil, and the things California taught us we can't live without.
David and Lena rewrite the pairing together every week. There is no list of bottles you can order; there is a conversation that begins when you sit down and ends with the mignardise. If you want something we don't pour, ask David. He probably has it in the cellar.
Linen, brass candlesticks, a single white tulip on every table. The room does not change. The lighting does, very slightly, between the fifth and the sixth course. You may not notice. We hope you don't.
David Reyes is a candidate for the Master Sommelier diploma. Advanced Certificate, 2021. And has run the wine program at Alouette since the first night of service. He came to Hudson by way of New York (Eleven Madison Park, Marea) and Napa (Meadowood), and his cellar runs about fourteen hundred selections deep.
The list leans Burgundian and Northern Californian, with a stubborn devotion to Sancerre, Jura, and the Santa Cruz Mountains. Half-bottles and large formats are unusually well represented. There is one Champagne house. Cédric Bouchard. For which there is a small dedicated shelf.
"I'd rather have one hundred bottles I love than a thousand I tolerate. The cellar is a point of view, not a museum."
Lena, then in her fourth year on the line at Atelier Crenn in San Francisco, sketches the first version of Alouette on the back of a service ticket. Ten courses, thirty-eight seats, no à la carte. The sketch survives, framed, above the pass.
Lena and David sign the lease on 47 Warren Street, a vacant 1890s townhouse three doors down from the Hudson Opera House. Demolition begins in October; the open kitchen is built around a single steel beam that took six weeks to install.
Alouette serves its first thirty-eight guests on April 14, 2018. The opening menu has nine courses; the tenth. A buckwheat ice cream with toasted barley. Is added two weeks later and has not left the menu since.
Food & Wine names Lena Marsh one of America's Best New Chefs. The kitchen receives its first stage applications from outside the country in the same month.
Alouette closes for fourteen weeks. We reopen with an outdoor menu in August. Six courses, served on the back patio under a grape arbor. And run it through the first snow.
Pete Wells awards Alouette two stars, calling it "the most personal tasting menu in the Hudson Valley. A kitchen with something to say, said softly."
Michelin returns to New York State and awards Alouette its first star. Held in 2024 and again in 2025. The pin lives in a small velvet box behind the host stand.
Construction begins on a quarter-acre kitchen garden on a leased plot ten minutes south of town. Three of the herbs on Spring Menu N°XII were cut from it the morning of service.
Born and raised in Sebastopol, California. Per Se, 2010 – 2013. Atelier Crenn, 2013 – 2017. Opened Alouette in April 2018. Food & Wine Best New Chef, 2019.
From the Hudson Valley by way of Mexico City. Eleven Madison Park, Marea, Meadowood. Master Sommelier diploma candidate, Advanced Certificate 2021. Wine Spectator Grand Award nominee, 2024.
If you can only eat in one room in the Hudson Valley this year, this is the room.Eater · The Year's Best New Restaurants
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